Sewing machine for edging fabrics



Jan. 12, 1937. V 3 V E 2,067,680

SEWING MACHINE FOR EDGING FABRICS Filed Aug. 15, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet l Jan. 12, 1937.

A. s. RIVIERE SEWING MACHINE FOR EDGING FABRICS Filed Aug. 15, 1954 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jan. 12, 1937. 5, V 2,067,680

SEWING MACHINE FOR EDGING FABRICS Filed Aug. 15, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 0 9 L 6" J2 J 2? J2 Jan. 12, 1937. A. s. RlVlERE SEWING MACHINE FOR EDGING FABRICS Filed Aug. 15, 1954 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Jan. 12, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Albert S. Riviere, Chicago, 111., assignor to Union Special Machine Company, Chicago, 111., a corporation of Illinois Application August 15, 1934, Serial No. 740,008

25 Claims.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a sewing machine for edging fabrics.

An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine wherein the work support is so constructed that the machine may be readily used for edging a flat section of fabric or for edging a small tubular section of fabric.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type with devices for forming a hem fold in the edge of the fabric and for stitching said hem fold with stitches which do not show on the right face of the material being stitched.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the fabric guide presenting the folded edge of the fabric to the stitching mechanism is adjustable by devices which are capable of shifting said fabric guide through small increments of movement, and of holding said guide in a set position.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the member cooperating with the edge guide for directing the hem fold is adapted to be swung to a raised position to facilitate the finishing of a he on a tubular fabric.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a means whereby the fabric guide and the devices cooperating therewith to form the hem fold may be swung to inoperative position so as to adapt the machine for edge stitching without forming a hem fold.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings- Figure 1 is a side View of a sewing machine embodying the improvements;

Fig. 2 is a front view of the same;

Fig. 3 is a view partly in section and partly in plan showing the work support, the presser foot, the trimming devices, the edge guide and the cooperating member which forms a hem fold and directs it to the stitching mechanism;

Fig. 4 is a view from the front of the machine with parts in section to show the under stitching elements, and with the edge guide supporting means turned to inoperative position and sectioned;

Fig. 5 is a plan view showing the throat plate, the covering mechanism for the stitching elements associated therewith for tubular stitching, the cover plate or work support used for flat stitching, turned to inoperative position and also showing the fabric guide and the means for supporting and adjusting the same;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5, but showing the cover plate or work support in position for flat stitching, and the edge guide as moved to an inoperative position;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view through the supporting means for the edge guide and showing the adjusting means therefor;

Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectional view through the edge guide and showing the manner of guiding the fabric section in the form of a hem fold to the stitching mechanism and to the trimming mechanism;

Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view at the stitching point showing the needle in the fabric sections;

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic view showing the placing of the stitches in the fabric sections and about the edges thereof for the blind stitching of the hem fold;

Fig. 11 is a sectional detail showing the looking lug for holding the fabric guide in operative position, and

Fig. 12 is a transverse sectional View through the presser foot, the throat plate and the fabric guide at the rear end of the fabric guide showing the relation of the fabric sections as they leave this fabric guide and pass to the trimmer.

The machine embodying the invention is particularly adapted for stitching at the edge of a fabric section. It is of the type shown in the patent granted Norman V. Christensen and Frederick F. Zeier, March 25, 1930, No. 1,751,508. The devices cooperating with the needle beneath the work support are covered by a depending fabric guiding portion which lies alongside of and in rear of the throat plate, and which is shaped so as to permit a small tubular article to have the edge thereof stitched and the seam continued all the way around said tubular article. The machine is also provided with a movable work support which, when in normal position, extends alongside of the throat plate over this depending portion, and in rear of the throat plate. The movable work support is turned to an inoperative position when the machine is used for tubular stitching, and it is turned to an operative position alongside of the throat plate when the ma-- chine is used for edge stitching flat fabric sections. The edge stitching mechanism as shown in this machine, is an overedge stitching mechanism. It includes a needle, a cooperating thread carrying looper located and operating beneath the work support, and a spreader or hook which takes the looper thread loop and carries it about the edge of the fabric into a position for the needle to enter. The machine is particularly adapted for blind stitching a hem fold at the edge of a fabric section, and is provided with a fabric guide and also a hem fold guide which directs a hem fold turned back upon the fabric section so that the edge of the fabric may be stitched to the folded portion of the fabric to form the hem by stitches which do not pass through and show on the right face of the fabric. The covering stitches cover the raw edge of the fabric. A trimmer is provided for trimming the edge preparatory to the stitching. The fabric guide and the hem fold guiding member are both mounted so that they may be adjusted laterally of the line of stitching, and means is provided for shifting the fabric guide through small increments of movement and for holding the guide'in a set position. Means is also provided whereby the hem fold guiding devices may be turned to an inoperative position when it is desired to stitch a fabric section without hemming the same.

It is thought the invention will be better understood by a detail description of the illustrated embodiment thereof. The machine includes a supporting base I carrying a standard on which are supporting bearings for the main actuating shaft. This main actuating shaft is in the upper housing of the machine and is indicated at 2. A needle bar 4 carrying a needle 5 is reciprocated from a crank carried by the main actuating shaft. Cooperating with the needle beneath the work support is a thread carrying looper 5 mounted on a shaft! which is oscillated through a suitable train of mechanism from the main actuating shaft in the housing. The eccentric strap 3 (Fig. 1) is a part of the train of mechanism which oscillates the looper. Cooperating with the thread carrying looper 6 and the needle 5 is a spreader or thread carrying hook 8 which is mountedon a shaft 9, and this shaft 9 is oscillated from the main actuating shaft in the upper housing, by a train of mechanism including an eccentric strap 3a. The arrangement of the actuating shaft and the operating of the stitch forming elements beneath the work support are of the general type shown in the Christensen et a1. patent above referred to, and it is not thought necessary to show or describe in further detail, these devices. The machine is provided with a throat plate I 2 mounted on a support fixed to the base of the machine. This throat plate forms a part of the work supporting means. Associated with this throat plate is a main work support I2a. This main work support is mounted to swing on a headed pivot bolt I2b which is secured to a raised portion Ia of the base by means of a set screw I2c. This work support may be positioned so as to form with the throat plate I2 a work supporting surface for stitching flat fabric sections. It may be swung to one side during the stitching of tubular articles. The throat plate is inclined from the point a to the point D to the right as viewed in Fig. 5, and this is for the purpose of permitting the fabric when stitching small tubular articles to be directed down over the inclined edge as soon as it leaves the rear end of the presser foot.

As clearly shown in Fig. 4, there is a depending cover plate or auxiliary work supporting member I 3. This member is shaped to conform to the inclined face of the throat plate and has a flat horizontal portion I3a which is curved downwardly along a line close to the throat plate. Saidv auxiliary work support I3 extends to a point beneath the looper 6 and well down below the shaft 9 carrying the spreader so that all of the stitch forming devices, as well as the feeding mechanism beneath the work support, are covered by this auxiliary work supporting member I3. Said auxiliary work supporting member I3 is also bent around in front of the looper as indicated at IS?) in Fig. 2. This auxiliary work supporting member used in connection with the stitching of tubular fabrics is provided with a hinge sleeve I4 which engages a pintle I5 carried by the lugs l6,

. I6. These lugs I6, I6 are in turn carried by a plate I'I secured by screws I8, I8 to the bed I of the machine. These screws pass through elongated slots so that the plate I! may be adjusted endwise or in a direction parallel with the feed for properly positioning the auxiliary work supporting member I3. When the auxiliary work supporting member is turned to the position shown in Figures 4 and 5, it will remain in this position, as the hinge line is at one side. The weight of the work supporting member will hold it bearing on the supporting post carrying the throat plate, a portion of which is indicated at I9. The throat plate is provided with the usual feed slots indicated at II. The material is fed across the throat plate by a feed dog II] which works in said slots in the throat plate. This feed dog is carried by a feed bar which is moved back and forth, and through a suitable train of mechanism including an eccentric 3b. It is raised and lowered by an eccentric strap 30 which also actuates the trimming blade.

The material is held on the work support by a presser foot 20 carried by a lever arm 2|, and is yieldingly depressed by a spring-pressed member 22, as shown in the Christensen et al patent. The machine is particularly designed for the forming of a hem fold at one edge of a fabric, and the securing of said hem fold by stitches which do not show on the right face of the material. In Figures 8 to 10 of the drawings, there is shown a fabric section indicated at F which is bent back upon itself as indicated at F, forming a fold in the body fabric indicated at F It is again bent back upon itself as indicated at F and this forms a hem fold which is laid back on the face of the fabric section F. The edge portion F is trimmed off by a trimming device, and then the folded portions F and F are laid flat against the fabric section F and pass beneath the presser foot to the stitching mechanism. The needle 5 passes through the upper folded portion F back from its edge, and through the folded back portion F The fabric sections are so guided that the needle in passing through this folded back portion F does not pass through to the right face of the fabric section F, but is wholly within the fabric section. This lays the needle thread, which is indicated at n in Fig. 10, in the fabric so that when the hem fold is turned back to its proper position, the stitches do not show or grin .on the right face of the fabric. A looper thread loop indicates at l is passed through the needle thread loop beneath the fabric, and is carried around the trimmed edge of the fabric and secured by the next formed needle thread loop, so that the overedge stitches completely cover the raw trimmed edge of the fabric portion F.

In order to stitch the fabric section in the manner above described to form a blind stitch hem fold, the fabric section is folded, and the hem folded portion is guided by the member 23. This member 23 is mounted on a base or bracket member 24 rigidly attached to the outer end of a bar 25. The bar 25 is in turn mounted for endwise adjustment on the supporting bracket plate 26. Said bracket plate 26 is L-shaped and is pivoted at 2! to the standard of the machine. The hem fold guiding member 23 overhangs the fabric section, and is provided with a downturned portion 23a and a rearwardly turned portion 23b. The member 23 is adjustably attached to a block 24a which is pivotally attached to the bracket member 24. Said block lies between two upstanding members 2411 and 240 and is mounted to swing on a pivot pin 24d. The purpose of supporting the hem fold guiding member 23 on a pivoted block is to enable said hem fold guiding member to be swung to an inoperative position to facilitate the finishing of a hem on a tubular garment, and also to aid in the inserting of the hem fold therein.

Threaded into the base member 24 is an adjusting screw 28. Said adjusting screw is provided with a head 29 having a slot to receive a screw-driver, and a collar 30 which is spaced therefrom, The shank portion of the member 23 is slotted at 3|. A clamping screw 32 passes through the slot into the base member 24 and has a clamping shoulder which may be turned down on to this hem fold guiding member to hold it in a set position. The slot 3| extends all the way to the right-hand end of the shank of this hem fold guiding member. The distance between the side walls of the slot 3| in the shank portion of the member 23, is less than the diameter of the collar 30, and the side walls of the shank portion are provided with recesses 33, 33 to receive the collar 30. When it is desired -to adjust the hem fold guiding member 23, the clamping screw 32 is released, and then the adjusting screw 29 is turned in or out, depending upon which way it is desired to shift this guiding member. The collar 30 forcibly moves the guiding member to different set positions when the adjusting screw 29 is turned. The clamping member is set so that the curved portion 23a thereof will guide the fold F formed between the folded portions F and F of the fabric sections (see Fig. 8). The edge 230 of this hem fold guiding member engages the fabric section at the fold F Cooperating with this hem fold guiding member 23 is a fabric guiding member which guides the folded edge portion F thereof. This fabric guiding member is indicated at 34. The fabric guiding member 34 is fixed to the supporting base 24, and as shown is formed as an integral part thereof. This fabric guiding member has a portion which is substantially parallel with the line of feed, and which is indicated at 35. The operator feeding the fabric with the hem fold formed therein, directs the edge portion F along this guiding wall 35. The guiding wall 35 following the direction of feed, leads into a curved portion 35, and this curved portion leads to a straight portion 3'! which is parallel with the line of feed, and it is this portion 3'! which guides the folded edge portion F to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section without emerging and again entering on the right face of the fabric. The hem fold guiding member 23 is curved as indicated at 38 for the purpose of crowding this folded edge portion F to the right to bring it into contact with the edge guiding portion 3'! of the fabric guide. The curved portion 35, as shown in the drawings, extends to the right slightly beyond the straight line of the edge guide 31, and this will cause said folded portion F to contact with and be guided by said portion 37. When it is desired to cover the raw edge of the material in which the hem fold is formed, a trimmer is used for trimming the edge preparatory to the covering. The'upper trimming blade is indicated at 39, and the cutting edge thereof at 40. This cutting edge 40 cooperates with a lower trimming blade 4! which is fixed to the supporting post carrying the throat plate. The upper trimming blade is carried by a lever 42 pivoted at 43 and oscillated by an eccentric strap 44 cooperating with an eccentric on the main actuating shaft in the housing 2. This trimming mechanism in all of its essential features is shown and described in the Christensen et a1 patent. The edge portion to be trimmed passes over the fabric guide 34 as shown in Fig. 8, and this guide terminates just in advance of the trimmer. The presser foot 20 extends forward over the delivery end of the edge guide. The lower face of the edge guide inclines upwardly rearwardly, while the forward end'of the throat plate also inclines upwardly rearwardly. The edge guide lies close to the surface of the throat plate all the way to the rear end thereof, and is so dimensioned as to thickness at the rear end, that the fabric sections will be laid flat against each other and clamped by the presser foot against the throat plate just as the fabric sections leave the end of the fabric guide and are submitted to the trimmer for the trimming of the edge of the upper folded portion. The section of the presser foot 20 directly in front of the trimmer is cut away at 20a so as to overlie the guiding portion 31 of the fabric guide 34.

The bracket plate 26 which supports the base member 24 is carried by a supporting member 45 which is attached to the standard by suitable bolts, one of which is indicated at 4B. This bolt passes through elongated slots so that the sup-- port can be raised and lowered. Projecting laterally from this support are spaced members a? and 48. The bracket plate 26 extends between these members and a pivot bolt 27 passing through the members 41 and 48 serves as a pivotal support for the bracket plate 26. These members are spaced a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the bracket plate 26m and a dished flexible spring washer 5D surrounds the pivot bolt and bears against the member 41 and the bracket plate and serves as a yielding friction means for holding the bracket plate in its inoperative position. Said bracket plate is shown as turned to an inoperative position in Fig. 3 of the drawings,

and is shown as turned to an operative position in the other figures of the drawings. As a means for holding the bracket plate in operative position, the throat plate is provided with a raised rib 5|. The under face of the fabric guide 34 is provided with a recess 52 forming a shoulder 53 which rides over this rib 5! and engages the inner face thereof so as to hold the bracket plate in its operative position. There is sufficient play of the parts and sufficient yield in the spring washer to permit the shoulder passing over the rib into a locking position.

It is very essential that the fabric guide 34 be adjusted to different set positions with great accuracy. In order that this may be accomplished, a bar carrying the supporting base, 24 is attached to the supporting bracket plate 26 so that it may have an endwise movement thereon. The bracket plate 26 is provided with a slot 56. Headed screws 55 threaded into the bar engage this slot and prevent any lateral movement of the bar on the bracket plate while permitting endwise movement thereof. A bolt 56 passing through a slot in the bracket plate and washers 58 bearing against the head of the bolt and the under face of the bracket plate, serve as a means for holding the bar on the bracket plate. The screw may be tightened for clamping the parts together, but it is preferably so set as to hold the parts from up and down lateral movement, but permitting endwise movement of the bar on the bracket plate. Threaded into the bracket plate is an adjusting bolt 59 which has a knurled head 60. Attached to this adjusting bolt 59 is a collar 61 which is preferably cone-shaped and graduated. Also attached to the adjusting bolt is a collar 62 which has ratchet teeth therein. These two collars SI and 62 are spaced from each other. The bar 25 has down-turned end portions 25a which are spaced and which lie between these collars BI and 62. Whenever the adjusting bolt 59 is turned, this will force the bar 25 one way or the other, depending upon the turning of the adjusting bolt. Cooperating with the ratchet surface on the collar 62 is a friction holding dog 63 which is mounted on the bracket plate 25 and springs into the recesses on this ratchet faced collar 62. This prevents any turning of the adjusting screw unless it is grasped by the operator and forcibly turned. There is a mark on the bar which cooperates with the graduatio-ns on the collar 5i, and this enables the operatorto determine the setting of the fabric guide for different thicknesses of fabric. When this adjusting bolt is turned, the fabric guide will be shifted through very small increments of movement, and will be held in the set position where the adjusting bolt is released and stops. In order that the needle thread shall be completely concealed within the fabric section, a very great nicety of'adjustment is necessary of this fabric guide, and this is readily accomplished by the mechanism just described.

From the above it will be apparent that a machine has been provided which is especially adapted for blind stitching a hem fold at the edge of a fabric section. The machine may be readily adapted for the stitching of a tubular fabric of small diameter wherein the hem is a continuation all the way around the tubular fabric. It may also be used for forming a blind stitched hem fold at the edge portion of a fiat fabric section which passes straight through the machine, and when such a fabric section'is. beingv stitched, then the main work support is swung to operative position for covering the auxiliary fabric supporting plate which is operative only when stitching tubular sections. It will be noted that the guiding member for the hem fold may be adjusted with great nicety through the positive means which shifts, it from one set position to another and holds it in a set position. It is also to be noted that the fabric guide which guides the folded edge portion of the fabric section and de' termines where the needle shall pass therethrough, may be adjusted with great nicety through very small increments of adjustment by a positive means for shifting said fabric guide to different set positions, so that it is never out of control and will always be held firmly in a set position. Inasmuch as the hem fold guiding member and the member for guiding the edge of the fabric are both mounted on the bar 25, it may be' adjusted as a unit to different set positions, and at the same time, the hem fold guiding member may be independently adjusted. It is further noted that the devices for forming the hem fold and directing the same for blind stitching, may all be very quickly moved to an inoperative position, thus rendering the machine readily usable as an overedger for overedging a fabric section, whether it be a tubular fabric section or a flat fabric section.

It is obvious that many changes in the details of construction may be made Without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.-

Having "thus described the invention, what I claim new and desire to'secure by Letters Patcm, is-

' 1. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a throat plate carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the-throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be presented to the stitch forming mechanism and a continuous line of stitching formed all the way around said articles, and means for mounting said work guiding member whereby it may be turned to a position to give access to the stitch forming devices.

2. A sewing machine including in combination,

a supporting bed, a post carried thereby, a throat plate mounted on the upper end of said post and serving to support the material being stitched, said throat plate from the left-hand side thereof as viewed from the front of the machine and from a point in front of the needle being inclined toward the line of feed so as to permit the fabric as seen as it is stitched being passed down over said inclined edge, a work guiding member located alongside of said throat plate and the inclined face thereof and in rear of said throat plate, and having a relatively narrow horizontal portion adjacent the throat plate and a dependingoutwardly inclined portion covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate whereby small tubular articles may be stitched.

3. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a post carried thereby, a throat plate mounted onthe upper end of said post and. serving to support the material being stitched, said throat plate from the left-hand side thereof as viewed from the front of the machine and from a point infront of the needle being inclined toward the line of feed so as to permit the fabric as soonas it is stitched being passed down over said inclined edge, a work guiding member located alongside of said throat plate and the inclined face thereof and in rear of said throat plate. and having a relatively narrow horizontal portion adjacent the throat plate and a depend ing outwardly inclined portion covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate whereby small tubular articles may be stitched, means for pivotally supporting said work guiding member on said bed at the lower outer side thereof whereby said guiding member may be moved away from the throat plate to give access to the stitching devices, and when moved into operative position for guiding the fabric, will bear on and be supported by said post carrying the throat plate.

fl. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a throat plate carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plateand in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so, as to permit small tubular articles to be presented to the stitch forming mechanism and a continuous line of stitching formed all the Way around said articles, means for mounting said work guiding member whereby it may be turned to a position to give access to the stitch forming devices, a work support pivotally mounted on the bed adjacent the rear end thereof and extending alongside of said throat plate when in operative position, said work support being substantially flush with the throat plate and serving to support and guide a flat section of fabric during the stitching thereof, said work support being movable to an inoperative position during the stitching of tubular articles.

5. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a post carried thereby, a throat plate mounted on the upper end of said post and serving to support the material being stitched, said throat plate from the left-hand side thereof as viewed from the front of the machine and from a point in front of the needle being inclined toward the line of feed so as to permit the fabric as soon as it is stitched being passed down over said inclined edge, a work guiding member located alongside of said throat plate and the inclined face thereof and in rear of said throat plate and having a relatively narrow horizontal portion adjacent the throat plate and a depending outwardly inclined portion covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate whereby small tubular articles may be stitched, and a work support pivotally mounted on the bed adjacent the rear end thereof and extending alongside of said throat plate and shaped to conform to the inclined face of said throat plate so as to contact therewith and form a continuation of the fabric supporting surface of the throat plate for the stitching and guiding of fiat fabric sections, said work support being movable to an inoperative position during the stitch-ing of tubular articles.

6. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a standard rising therefrom, a main actuating shaft mounted in said standard and extending in the general direction of the line of feed, a post carried by said bed, a throat plate mounted on the upper end of said post, a needle bar carried by the standard and provided with a needle, complemental stitch forming mechanism located below the throat plate and cooperating with said needle, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be presented to the stitch forming mechanism and a continuous line of stitching formed all the way around said article.

7. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a throat plate carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be presented to the stitch forming mechanism and a continuous line of stitching formed all the way around said articles, a work support pivotally mounted on the bed adjacent the rear end thereof and extending alongside of said throat plate when in operative position, said work support being substantially flush with the throat plate and serving to support and guide a flat section of fabric during the stitching therecf,-'said work support being movable to an inoperative position during the stitching of tubular articles.

8. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a standard rising therefrom, a main actuating shaft mounted in said standard and extending in the general direction of the line of feed, a post carried by said bed, a throat plate mounted on the upper end of said post, a needle bar carried by the standard and provided with a needle, complemental stitch forming mechanism located below the throat plate and cooperating with said needle, said throat plate from the lefthand side thereof as viewed from the front of the machine and from a point in front of the needle being inclined toward the line of feed so as to permit the fabric as soon as it is stitched being passed down over said inclined edge, a work guiding member located alongside of said throat plate and the inclined face thereof and in rear of the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be presented to the stitch forming mechanism and a continuous line of stitching formed all the way around said articles.

9. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a throat plate. carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be presented to the stitch forming mechanism and a continuous line of stitching formed all the way around said articles, means for directing a turned back hem fold to the stitching mechanism for blind stitching, and a fabric guide contacting with the folded edge of the fabric for guiding the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof.

10. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a. throat plate carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be stitched, a work support carried by the bed and adapted to be moved so as to overlie said work guiding member and form a work supporting surface substantially flush with the upper face of the throat plate for flat stitching, and moved to an inoperative position for uncovering said fabric guiding member for tubular stitching, means for directing a turned back hem fold to the stitching mechanism for blind stitching, and a fabric guide contacting with the folded edge of the fabric for guiding the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof.

11. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a throat plate carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be stitched, a work support carried by the bed and adapted to be moved so as to overlie said work guiding member and form a work supporting surface substantially flush with the upper face of the throat plate for flat stitching, and moved to an inoperative position for uncovering said fabric guiding member for tubularstitching, means for directing a turned back hem fold to the stitching mechanism for blind stitching, and a fabric guide contacting with the folded edge of the fabric for guiding the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof, said means for guiding the hem fold and for directing the folded edge of the fabric being mounted independently of said work guiding member and said work supporting member.

12. A sewing machine including in combination,

' a supporting bed, a stitch forming mechanism, a

throat plate carried by said bed, a work guiding member located at one side of said throat plate and in rear thereof and covering the stitch forming devices beneath the throat plate, said work guiding member being shaped so as to permit small tubular articles to be stitched, a work support carried by the bed and adapted tobe moved so as to overlie said work guiding member and form a work supporting surface substantially flush with the upper face of the throat plate for flat stitching, and moved to an inoperative position for uncovering said fabric guiding member for tubular stitching, means for directing a turned back hem fold to the stitching mechanism for blind stitching, a fabric guide contacting with the folded edge of the fabric for guiding the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof, said means for guiding the hem fold and said fabric guiding member being mounted on a supporting base, a bar carrying said base, and a bracket arm on which said bar is mounted, said bracket arm being pivotally'supported so as to permit said supporting base and the parts carried thereby to be moved to -inoper'ative position for plain stitching.

13. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member, an overhanging fold guiding member at one side of the line of stitching for guiding a hem fold turned back on the top of a fabric section for blind stitching, means at the opposite side of the line of stitching for securing said fold guiding member to said base member whereby it may be adjusted to different set positions, a fabric guide carried by said base member for engaging the folded edge of the fabric for directing the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof, and means for adjustably supporting said base member whereby said fabric guide may be shifted to different set positions.

14. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member,

a hem fold guiding member for guiding a hem fold turned back on the fabric section for blind stitching, means for securing said hem fold guiding member to said base member whereby it may be adjusted to difierent set positions, a fabric guide carried by said base member for engaging the folded edge of the fabric for directing the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof, means for adjustably supporting said base member whereby said fabric guide may be shifted to difierent set positions, said fabric guide having the face. thereof with which the fabric contacts shaped soas to provide a straight portion-parallel with the line of feed for guiding fold and having a fabric guiding portion extending beneath the hem fold and contacting with the fabric section at the folded edge through which the needle passes, said fabric guiding portion being curved and opposed to said cut-away portion of said fabric guide.

15. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a Work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member, an overhanging fold guiding member at one side of the line of stitching for guiding a hem fold turned back on the top of a fabric section for blind stitching, means at the opposite side of the line of stitching for securing said fold guiding member to said base member whereby it may be adjusted to different set positions, a fabric guide carried by said base member for engaging the folded edge of the fabric for directing the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and cut of the fabric section on the same face thereof, means for adjustably supporting said base member whereby said fabric guide may be shifted to different set positions, said last-named means including a bar attached to the base member, a bracket arm on which said bar is mounted for endwise movement, a threadedadjusting bolt carriedby said bracket arm and having spaced collars thereon, said bar having projecting portions extending between said spaced collars whereby said bar is shifted when said bolt is turned.

16. A sewing machine including in combina tion, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member, a hem fold guiding member for guiding a'hem fold turned back on the fabric section for blind stitching, means for securing said hem fold guiding member to said base member whereby it may be adjusted to different set positions, a fabric guide carried by said base member for engaging the folded edge of the fabric for directing the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof, means for adjustably supporting said base member whereby said fabric guide may be shifted to different set positions, said last-named means including a bar attached to the base member, a bracket arm on which said bar is mounted for endwise movement, a threaded adjusting bolt carried by said bracket arm and having spaced collars thereon, said bar having projecting portions extending between said spaced collars whereby said bar is shifted when said bolt is turned, one of said collars having a ratchet face and a pawl contacting therewith for yieldingly holding said bolt in set position.

17. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member, a hem fold guidingmember for guiding a hem fold turned back on'the fabric section for blind stitching, means for securing said hem fold guiding member to said base member whereby it may be adjusted to different set positions, a fabric guide carried by said base member for engaging the folded edge of the fabric for directing the same to the needle so that the needle will pass into and out of the fabric section on the same face thereof, means for adjustably supporting said base member whereby said fabric guide may be shifted to different set positions, said lastnamed means including a bar attached to the base member, a bracket arm on which said bar is mounted for endwise movement, a threaded adjusting bolt carried by said bracket arm and having spaced collars thereon, said bar having projecting portions extending between said spaced collars whereby said bar is shifted when said bolt is turned, one of said collars having a ratchet face and a pawl contacting therewith for yieldingly holding said bolt in set position, the other of said collars having the face thereof graduated to cooperate with the base line on the bar for indicating the extent of adjustment of the fabric guide.

18. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a throat plate carried by said bed, a presser foot associated with the throat plate, a stitch forming mechanism, a hem fold guiding mechanism for guiding a hem fold folded back on the fabric section for blind stitching the edge of the hem fold to the body fabric, said hem fold guiding mechanism including a base member, a fabric guide carried thereby for contacting with the folded edge of the fabric and directing the same to the needle so that the needle will enter and emerge from the same face of the fabric, a hem fold guiding member adapted to overhang the hem fold and extend beneath the same so as to contact with the inner face of the fabric section at the folded edge for directing the same along the fabric guide, said hem fold guiding member being mounted so that it may be turned to an inoperative position away from the fabric guide for the placing of the fold of the fabric section therein.

19. A sewing machine including in combination, a supporting bed, a throat plate carried by said bed, a presser foot associated with the throat plate, a stitch forming mechanism, a hem fold guiding mechanism for guiding a hem fold folded back on the fabric section for blind stitching the edge of the hem fold to the body fabric, said hem fold guiding mechanism including a base member, a fabric guide carried thereby for engaging the folded edge of the fabric and directing the same to the needle, a hem fold guiding member carried by said base member, means for supporting said hem fold guiding member so that it may be adjusted bodily laterally of the line of feed, means for clamping said hem fold guiding member in adjusted positions, and means for positively shifting the hem fold guiding member to different set positions when released from said clamping means.

20. A sewing machine including in combination, a sup-porting bed, a throat plate carried by said bed, a presser foot associated with the throat plate, a stitch forming mechanism, a hem fold guiding mechanism for guiding a hem fold folded back on the fabric section for blind stitching the edge of the hem fold to the body fabric, said hem fold guiding mechanism including a base member, a fabric guide carried thereby for engaging the folded edge of the fabric and directing the same to the needle, a bar to which said base member is attached, a bracket arm on which said bar is mounted for endwise movement, said bracket arm having a longitudinal slot therein and said bar having studs mounted for movement in said slot, a holding screw carried by the bar and extending through the bracket arm, said holding screw being disposed in a slot which permits endwise adjustment of the car, an adjusting bolt threaded into said bar and having spaced collars thereon, said bar having the outer end thereof bent downwardly and forked so as to extend between said collars, whereby the adjustment of said bolt will shift said bar through small increments of movement under control of the adjusting bolt, said adjusting bolt operating to hold said bar in its different set positions.

21. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member, a hem fold guiding member for guiding a hem fold turned back on the fabric section for blind stitching, means for supporting said base member whereby it may be swung about a vertical axis from an inoperative to operative position, said base member and said work supporting member having an inter-engaging recess and rib for holding said supporting member in operative position, and means for yieldingly holding said rib and recess in engagement.

22. A sewing machine including in combination, a standard, stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a hem fold guiding member for drecting the fabric to the stitching mechanism, a bracket supporting said hem fold guiding member, projecting lugs carried by the standard, said bracket having a member extending between said lugs, a pivot bolt passing through said lugs and said member, a washer between the lugs for yieldingly holding said memher in contact with the lower lug, said work supporting member having a projecting rib and said hem fold guiding member having a recess adapted to engage said rib and yieldingly held in contact therewith when said hem fold guiding member is in operative position.

23. A sewing machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a hem fold guiding member for directing a hem fold beneath the presser foot for blind stitching, means for guiding the folded edge of the fabric section, said presser foot having a cutaway portion on the under face thereof and said guiding means being extended into said cutaway portion for guiding said folded edge portion of the fabric until it is gripped by the presser foot.

24. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a trimming mechanism including trimming devices located and operating in front of the stitching mechanism, a presser foot cooperating with the work supporting member and extending in front of the trimming devices, means for guiding a hem fold for blind stitching including a guiding member for guiding the folded edge of the fabric which is to be stitched, said presser foot having a cutaway portion in front of the trimmer, and said edge guiding memher being extended into said cutaway portion for supporting and directing the edge of the fabric section which is to be trimmed until it is gripped by the presser foot.

25. A sewing machine including in combination, a stitch forming mechanism, a work supporting member, a presser foot, a base member, a hem fold guiding member for guiding the hem fold turned back on the fabric section for blind stitching, a supporting bracket for said hem fold guiding member, a block pivoted to said bracket, and means for adjustably attaching said hem fold guiding member to said block whereby it may be shifted to different set positions on said block, and whereby through the swinging of said block, said hem fold guiding member may be turned to inoperative position.

ALBERT S. RIVIERE. 

